Four-És-Feins

Trip No.209  Entry No.10  Date Added: 13th Jun 2020
Site Type: Passage Grave Country: France (Bretagne:Ille-et-Vilaine (35))
Visited: Yes on 12th Jun 2009. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 4 Access 3

Log Text: I went and had another look for this while in the area last weekend, now knowing to look nearby to the Beillac farm. I could see nothing obvious when driving slowly down the lane past the farm, but there was an old couple out tending their wonderful vegetable garden, so I stopped and asked them if they could tell me where the dolmen was. They were interested to know what an Englishman was doing looking for the remnants of the dolmen, but were happy to help.

Unfortunately, I struggled to understand fully all they were saying, a combination of strong accent and using some words I just could not figure out. But I thought I had got enough of a lead to find it easily. Park out of the way of the farm track by the corner of the farm. Cross the field to the south on the newly cut hay at the edge of the field for 200 metres until reaching the other side. Go straight on about another 100 metres (unknown words) until I get to the big trees, and it is on the left, (some more unknown words). Put boots on if you have them. Sounds simple.

Well, it was all very simple simple, until I tried to decide which of all the woodlands were the correct big trees. However, after a few false starts, I found a place in a woodland to the left of the track, with a mound in it, and what looked to be some lumps sticking up, but it was very overgrown. It has to be this, surely. Closer inspection amongst the ivy and brambles, and there were clearly a few side set slabs sticking up through the ground, and I was pretty sure I could determine two rows of slabs about 1.5 metres apart from each other, but with no stone more than 0.5 metres tall, and most substantially lower. I reckoned that what I had found on top of the mound was about 10 metres in length, and had to be the remains of a very ruined allée couverte.

However, walking back to the car, I thought that these poor remains were not really enough to be known by the name Four-es-Feins; the Fairies Oven. Surely something with a name like that must be a grander structure. I also thought it to be too ruined to be what the old couple were explaining to me, although they did say it was just the remains of an allée couverte. I would have thought they would have told me not to bother rather than gladly give me directions.....

Upon returning to the car, I remembered I had book with description in a box in the boot. "Rectangular chamber measuring 10m by 1.5m with 6 orthostats on the south side and 5 on the north. Their length is between 1 and 1.8 metres, height about half a metre and thickness 0.3 metres. Brilliant, this all fits to what I saw. But then, the description goes on. Three cover slabs about half a metre thick, and the backstone are still in place. Around the monument, a dozen or so other stones lie scattered.

Well, I can believe the stones are now more covered by undergrowth and soil than that description, and hence seem smaller. The size, orientation and almost everything seems right, with one major exception; the three cover stones. There was nothing at all which could have been them. Read the description again and realise it has been based upon a plan and writings from 1886 and 1928. Maybe it has become much more wrecked since then, but what of the old couples talk ?

So, was this Four-es-Feins or not? If it wasn't, what had I found ? I am not sure, but like to think I did find it. Certainly until anyone proves otherwise and can show me something better I'll count it.

Roche-aux-Fées (Essé)

Trip No.210  Entry No.2  Date Added: 16th Sep 2020
Site Type: Passage Grave Country: France (Bretagne:Ille-et-Vilaine (35))
Visited: Yes on 3rd Jun 2010. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 5 Access 5

Log Text: June 2010 visit to France to see my sister, and as usual I had my Dad with me. I had decided on a long detour to visit La Roche-aux-Fées, but before we came here, I had told him nothing about it, except to say we were going to visit somewhere special. He is well used to me taking him to old stones all over the place, often on wild goose chases in woods and across fields finding nothing. But not this time.

This monument is now presented quite differently to when I previously visited in 2005, with a large new car park and visitor centre in what would have been fields to the south. Unfortunately, the visitor centre was closed, being open at weekends and holidays only this time of year until July and August when it becomes daily. I have read that this centre is very good, and with a decent book and gift shop.

From the visitor centre, a pathway leads through a nicely landscaped area towards the monument itself, which is hidden behind trees and hedges, until you round the end of a hedge (with a large fallen stone at the corner), and then there it is, in all its splendor, viewed towards the wonderful portal entrance. Even on my second visit here, it is awe inspiring, especially the work on the portico, which is over 4500 years old and still completely level.

My Dad was well impressed too, and couldn’t quite believe what he was seeing. “Oh My!, How can this be so big? What’s this for?” he asked. “It can’t be just to bury somebody in. All these separate room bits? Why? It’s a bit like the side chapels in a Cathedral”. Pretty much my thoughts exactly, and it is good to hear these things coming from somebody else with no prompting.

Somebody had made little piles of pebbles and other decorative bits and pieces placed at various places, which looked good. I am impressed by one of the massive capstones which seems to have been fitted exactly into a gap in the supporting side stones. This place is truly absolutely fantastic. I don’t have the words for it.

The new field around the monument has been splendidly done, and gives it the space it needs. Only two other people came to visit in the time we were here, a large improvement over my previous August Saturday visit. One downside are the various noticeboards now erected here, stating that cracks have been found in some of the stones, and people should be careful and not climb on the stones. I hope that there is no bad damage to the place. What would the Fairies think?

Barnenez Cairn

Trip No.203  Entry No.539  Date Added: 29th May 2020
Site Type: Chambered Cairn Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 22nd Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 3 Access 4

Log Text: This magnificent large cairn, is now signposted from miles around as Le Grand Cairn (de Barnenez). It costs €4.60 to get in, and there is a little visitor centre and shop, with replicas of some of the carved stones on display. Unlike 12 years ago, or whenever, you cannot go into many of the chambers, which are now walled off fairly crudely and unimaginatively, which I think really spoils the place. Its not just that you cant get in, but the way its been done really detracts from the view of the cairn and all its many entrances.

Only two chambers and passages are now open, these being the two beehive construction open chambers, but these seem to be cracking and breaking up. I was told by the man in the centre that they are not, and that they have been like that since their discovery. Perhaps its my memory, but I wonder if the 1960s restoration work is not lasting anywhere near so long as the original 6,000 year old work!

It's still a mighty impressive and imposing tomb sitting on top of its headland, and I think that more land has been cleared around it, allowing much better views over the Bay of Morlaix on one side, and Anse de Terenez on the other, which during this visit were full with a high tide, making the whole place seem truly wonderful.

I got talking to the men in the shop, and they were interested to hear about what I was doing, and one of the guys suggested a couple of places that I shouldn't miss. Commana allee couverte near Roche Trevezel, and Chapelle des Sept Saints near Lannion - a chapel built on top of a dolmen, which can still be seen.

St-Guinec menhir

Trip No.203  Entry No.548  Date Added: 2nd Jun 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 23rd Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 3 Access 4

Log Text: Despite being nearly 6 metres tall, this beautiful menhir is becoming obscured from view by a large thick hedge around the garden within which it stands. This is a shame, as it really is a rather nice stone. It can be found just off the Huelgoat to Brennilis road, by the bridge over the busy north / south D.764 highway.

Lagatjar alignements

Trip No.203  Entry No.498  Date Added: 27th May 2020
Site Type: Stone Row / Alignment Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 19th Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 4 Ambience 4 Access 5

Log Text: The Lagatjar alignements are an intriguing arrangement of stones, mostly consisting of large white quartz blocks on open common land, just to the east of the fishing town of Camaret. There are probably over a hundred stones, mostly aligned into three lines, but there are some outliers as well.

The longest line is over 200 metres in length and has an orientation of 037°. From this line are two rows of larger blocks, heading off at right angles on bearing 317° for the northern row, which is approximately straight and 60 metres in length. The southern row is about 50 metres away, and heads off at 315°, but curves towards the west away from the baseline. Perhaps these two rows once joined up to form a horseshoe ?

South of the main line are three large grey stones, a single one at the west and a pair to the east. These three stones are aligned with each other. There are lots of orchids flowering here, which seems a bit late in the year.

Ty ar Boudiquet Dolmen

Trip No.203  Entry No.545  Date Added: 2nd Jun 2020
Site Type: Burial Chamber or Dolmen Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 23rd Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 4 Access 5

Log Text: What a lovely monument this is! It's one of my favourites. It is easy to find, just at the northern edge of Brennilis village and clearly signposted, it has a little car park, a picnic area and it lives in a lovely large green and shady area, all very nicely looked after and with birdies tweeting away.

It is a rare dolmen in V form, which is thought to be a transitional stage between dolmens with entry passages (dolmen a couloir) and allée couvertes. It has been dated to about 3000BC.

It is almost complete, and has most of its earthern mound still with it, only a part of the back end has been destroyed by having a wall built through it. The chamber is about 14 metres long and varies in width from about 1 metre wide at the entrance, to nearly 3 metres at full width. The height also varies from about a metre to stand up height. The chamber opens at 125°. The main part of the is covered with three massive capstones, and has within it a standing stone which does not quite reach the roof. Perhaps a stele, but not smoothed and sculpted, or perhaps the remains of an internal wall.

Outside the chamber, the mound is almost complete, and even comes with most of its surrounding peristalith of stones. It is of an oval shape, approximately 17 metres long by 6 metres wide, and still up to 3 metres in height. Unfortunately the back end is cut by a wall and field boundary. The fairies house really is just that. A beautiful place for the little people to live.

Croazou chapel

Trip No.203  Entry No.524  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Ancient Cross Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 3 Access 5

Log Text: This is an odd little place where many thousands of years of ritual and worship can all be seen together. In the middle of a fairly busy road junction is built a little chapel which is said to be the smallest in Finistère. This chapel has been built onto a stèle with it still standing there at one of the back corners about 2 metres tall.

Outside the back wall are three medieval crosses positioned on top of a fallen menhir supposedly in all being in their original positions. Around the outside of the chapel is also a fairly recent collection of other crosses from the region which includes one intriguing cross which has been mounted on the top portion of what was obviously once a lovely iron age stele with wonderful shaping and patterns carved into it.

Trouble is while I was there it must have been going home time and the junction was very busy and stopping and getting pictures was very difficult having enough time to stand in the road and get a photo without getting run down.

Men-Marz

Trip No.203  Entry No.527  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 4 Access 5

Log Text: What a wonderful and fantastic menhir this is easily found to the north of Brignogan-Plage village by following plentiful signs. Men-Marz (the Miracle Stone in Breton) or Men-Bras (Grand Stone) is now set in a nice little area a previously close built house having been bought and demolished by the state and has a good information centre across the road with lots of informative boards.

At between 8.2 and 8.5 metres high depending upon where it is measured on the sloping ground it is said to be the fourth largest menhir still standing in France. It is a strange shaped beast as are the natural rocks around here and looks to be a thin and straight beast when seen from front and back but is a sort of triangular shape when seen from the sides with multiple cavities and ledges in the sides.

The stone has suffered from Christianising vandalism on at least two occasions as it not only has a granite cross mounted on the top but there is also an engraved cross on the south-eastern corner about 1.5 metres from the ground.

This stone has many legends attached to it which seem to get a bit mixed up and confused. There is a fairly flat ledge high up on the south side with several loose stones sitting on it. There seems to be two stories attached to this and the habit of throwing up pebbles onto it. One of the stories has it that young girls wanting to get married go to the stone and throw up a pebble. If the stone lands on the ledge and doesn’t fall down then she will be married within the year. This story is also told in a slightly different form in that young newly wed couples go to the stone and throw up a pebble and if the pebble lands and stays on the ledge then they will have an heir before the year is out. One throw only obviously. To this day newly wed couples come to this stone straight after the service.

While there I took my chances and threw a stone up and it did indeed stay up on the ledge. I do not know what this now has in store for me !

Guinivrit

Trip No.203  Entry No.529  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Passage Grave Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: This really is a nice place to visit, certainly when its quiet and the sun is out. I had hoped to see it with the tide well in tonight, but one thing and another and its now gone 8:00, and the tide is already gone out for two hours, and the water has gone from around it. However, there is still a lot of water flooding out of the bay, and I certainly wouldn't want to try and get a boat in here, as its going at running speed.

The allée couverte is easily found down beside the little harbour, and nowadays is signposted. Its not far at all from the little campsite where I stayed. Despite the fact that it has no capstones, and that some of the large side stones have been broken so it could act as a mole in the water for mooring and protecting boats in the past, it really is surprisingly complete. Most of the stones are still in place, not only of the main chamber, but also the peristalith, which is suitably boat shaped. In fact the whole thing looks rather like a boat pulled up onto the shoreline.

The main chamber is about eleven metres long and 1.5 metres in width, but with the outer stones the full size of the monument is more than double that, perhaps 30 metres by 6 metres. There is both a forward and aft extension to the compartmentalised chamber. Fantastic.

While here, I met a chap out for a bike ride, and we got talking about why I was here and ancient stones. He said he has always lived in the area, and as a boy used to play in the Goazvenn dolmen. He went on to tell me about a large fallen menhir that is almost forgotten, and that nobody ever talks about, and which seems to be in no historical records. He told me how to find it by walking around the coast path, and showed me where it was on my map, fallen onto the rocky shore. I decided that this was one place I had to visit, finding these forgotten stones has much more of a thrill than seeing the well known ones.

Grand menhir de Saint-Eden

Trip No.203  Entry No.532  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 22nd Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 3 Access 3

Log Text: This is the menhir that the chap I met last night was telling me about, right at the edge of the Grève (rocky shore), and unfortunately the sea has claimed it. It is now fallen and laying top down into the sea when the tide is in. Perhaps its one of those menhirs that came down to the sea to drink at midnight, had too much and didnt make it back. Or perhaps came down one night when the tide was not a big one, and fell over while trying to quench its thirst. Whatever, its a great pleasure to find this almost forgotten stone which is not marked on any map.

The stone is a lovely top heavy shape, some would say phallic, and about 8 metres in length. Its a pity it cant be re-erected somewhere, although obviously not in its original cliff edge position. There was an old farmer chap working in some fields nearby who told me that he could remember it standing, but he had no idea when it fell, but it was a long time ago. Fantastic.

Île Carn cairn

Trip No.203  Entry No.514  Date Added: 27th May 2020
Site Type: Chambered Cairn Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Saw from a distance on 20th Jun 2005. My rating: Access 2

Log Text: Just offshore is this little island which can be reached a low tide, with a massive cairn containing three dolmenic chambers. There are also some WW2 gun emplacements and lookouts which spoil it a bit. The cairn is massive, and looks like its been quarried into, and from the shore the entry to one of the chambers can be seen. Its a pity I cannot get out to have a look. Should I borrow a boat ?

Île Tariec cairn

Trip No.203  Entry No.518  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Cairn Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 5 Access 2

Log Text: Just to the north of the menhir on this little island which can be reached at low tide, is the slight mound of a cairn. Its about 15 metres in diameter and 2 metres in height. I could see nothing in the way of structure under all the grass and stuff.

Bellevue Menhir

Trip No.203  Entry No.451  Date Added: 23rd May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 16th Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 4 Ambience 2 Access 5

Log Text: Bellevue menhir near to the town of Moëlan-sur-Mer is more than 4 metres tall, right beside the old Roman road to the south of the town centre. I found it difficult to park nearby and get a reasonable picture in between dodging all the traffic on this busy road.

Ile Guénioc

Trip No.203  Entry No.519  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Chambered Tomb Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Saw from a distance on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 5 Access 1

Log Text: Just offshore from Presqu'ile Ste-Marguerite near the town of Landéda, and due west of Ile Tariec, can be seen Ile Guénioc (Ile Gaignog). This island, which is difficult to get to, has on it three massive cairns with their multitude of chambers and dolmens within them. In order to get here a boat is needed, and I think that landing on the island is controlled, so I am not going to manage it now, as there is nobody about with a boat who I can try and persuade!

Through my binoculars from where I am sat on Ile Tariec it looks superb. The southernmost cairn seems to have about half a dozen entrances in the eastern side and facing towards me, but it isn't a very high cairn. The middle cairn is even larger, but it is slightly obscured by a rise in the land in front of it. Several large dolmenic structures can be seen, with slabs of rock in places. The northern cairn is even higher, and looks to have about 4 entrances.

I feel that I really need to get out onto the island to have a proper look. I must come back one day with a small boat. Oh well, the tide has turned half an hour ago, I'd better start making my way back, I don't want to be stuck out on this little island for the next ten hours !

Ilot Roc'h-Avel

Trip No.203  Entry No.515  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Chambered Cairn Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 4 Access 3

Log Text: Just offshore from Presqu'ile Ste-Marguerite near the town of Landéda are a few small islands which can be reached at low tide, upon which there are stone monuments. Ilot Roc'h-Avel is one of these, which can be easily walked to from the beach at Kerennoc when not high tide tide.

Towards the western tip of the islet is the fascinating remains of a cairn which is now half on the island with the other half now taken by the sea. At the seaward edge can be seen a drystone walled chamber - only the northern half of which remains. A few large stones lie dotted about on the shoreline, which with a bit of imagination can be placed into position for some sort of chamber.

Just inland and up a bit from the cairn cut in half by the sea is another cairn, again of which certain edge set stones suggest remains of a chamber.

There are lots of children out on the beach below, obviously a school visit. All sorts of fun and games are going on, girls shreiking when their feet touch weed or shells! Brilliant. AAaaaaaaarggghhhh - its a crab !!!!!!

Île Tariec menhir

Trip No.203  Entry No.517  Date Added: 28th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 21st Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 5 Access 2

Log Text: Just offshore from Presqu'ile Ste-Marguerite near the town of Landéda are a few small islands which can be reached at low tide, upon which there are stone monuments.

Ile Tariec is one of these, which can only be walked to for a short while each side of low tide, and the island became split into two parts in about 1876. The part of the island nearest to the mainland has the remains of a twelfth century hermitage on it, and the island was used to house dead and ill people in the past when suffering from plague, cholera etc.

On the outward part of the island are the remains of a dolmen and a small menhir. The menhir is only about a metre high, a rock tapered towards the top, but in its position near the top of the island it can be clearly seen from all around.

I was told by the camp site man that the midsummer solstice sun rise, when seen from here with your chin resting on the top of the menhir, supposedly rises between the legs of a dolmen on the main headland, but which has now unfortunately fallen in the dunes. Its a pity I wasn't here 4 or 5 hours ago, as I could have checked the theory. However, from a quick bit of reckoning and I don't think so, the mainland doesn't seem to stretch far enough to the north, but who am I to question the story? The northernmost tip of the mainland is at a bearing of about 075° from here.

Kerloas Menhir

Trip No.203  Entry No.499  Date Added: 27th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 19th Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 5 Access 4

Log Text: What a fantastic stone, and easily found near to the old D.5 road to the east of Plouarzel due to many signposts to it. This is the biggest standing menhir in Europe, if not the world, at nearly 10 metres tall, and has lost the top 2 metres after a lightning strike! It towers above all around, and standing as it does on top of a hill, it can be seen from 30 kilometres away.

The stone, which is not local and has been brought to this hilltop site from more than 2.5 kilometres away near the Aber Ildut estuary, has been beautifully shaped, and tapers both into the ground, and up to a point. On the two "thin" sides of the stone are round humps, about 20 cm in diameter about belly high above the ground.

This stone of course has many legends, such as treasure buried beneath it, going to drink at the ocean on the strike of 12:00 on Christmas night, and that newly wed couples should come here on their wedding night to rub the stone lumps for a good future and fertility. In fact, many wedding parties still come here to this day in order to perform this ritual.

It was a pity it was cold and late when I visited, and not good light for photographs. I feel I would like to stay here a while, it has a lovely atmosphere. Maybe I will come back tomorrow.

Kergadiou Menhirs

Trip No.203  Entry No.500  Date Added: 27th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stones Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 20th Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: The two menhirs of Kergadiou are a fine place to visit, and fairly easily found in a field a couple of kilometres north of the Aber Ildut estuary. From these two giant menhirs, it is possible to see the Kerloas menhir when the modern trees are not in leaf, and the sightline over the Kerloas menhir is perpendicular to the midsummer sunrise. Coincidence ?

Kergadiou menhir 1 is a really magnificent monster menhir, 8.8 metres tall, and the most beautifully and perfectly smoothed and shaped menhir there is. Just 80 metres away to the northeast is its neighbour, another king sized menhir which unfortunately is not standing upright, but leaning at a very shallow angle. It is perfectly smoothed into an extremely flat face on its upper surface, while the lower surface is still rough, which leads to conjecture that it has perhaps never stood, and is left here unfinished. An alternate viewpoint is that it stood as a rough stone, and fell while being pounded into its smoothed and flattened shape, perhaps in preparation for some carvings. This menhir is 11 metres in length, so would have probably stood to the same height as its neighbour.

What a tremendous place.

Menhir de Kergoarat

Trip No.203  Entry No.533  Date Added: 29th May 2020
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 22nd Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 5 Access 4

Log Text: In contrast to its bulbous headed, thirsty neighbour, this fine chap looks to be wearing a pointy hat. He must be a good 7 metres tall and standing perfectly upright on this little headland beyond the beach. As with most of the stones round here, it is a wonderfully weathered rock, and from certain angles it has a face in it, looking out over the sea.

Pendreff Alignement

Trip No.203  Entry No.466  Date Added: 25th May 2020
Site Type: Stone Row / Alignment Country: France (Bretagne:Finistère (29))
Visited: Yes on 17th Jun 2005. My rating: Condition 5 Ambience 5 Access 4

Log Text: The Kerfland menhirs are three gorgeous tall slender menhirs standing in a row at the edge of a wood, easily reached down a little signposted footpath from the roadside a couple of kilometres south of Plomeur. They line up almost due north to south, at an alignment of 005° magnetic (in 2005) and are spaced about 5 metres apart from each other.

To me, these are the supermodels of the menhir world, each being over 5 metres tall yet only 30cm thick, and up to 2 m wide, and are very elegantly shaped into curvy features. The southern one is sort of pointing skywards. Unfortunately the central stone has obviously been broken in the past, but is cemented back together in a very reasonable way. It is just a pity that they are a bit overgrown, making pictures difficult, but not too badly.